Cauliflower

Cauliflower is the diva of the brassica bed, fussy about heat, indifferent to flattery, and worth it in October. The fall crop is the reliable one here; spring is attempted, not counted on.

Growing

Start indoors six to eight weeks before the May transplant for spring, and again in June for the fall set that goes out in August. It wants what all brassicas want, only without interruption: rich soil, steady water, no heat stalls, which is why September and October heads come out better than June ones. When a white head reaches egg size, fold a few outer leaves over it and clip them to keep it blanched. Cut while the curds are still tight; a ricey, loosening head was ready last week.

Varieties

Snow Crown is the forgiving one and the right first choice; Amazing earns its name in the fall slot; Graffiti is purple and skips the blanching step entirely.

Pests

Cabbageworms treat the leaves as an appetizer and the curd as dessert; net at transplant, or check weekly and bring in Bt when frass shows. Aphids hide deep in the wrapper leaves near harvest, and a firm dunk in salted water after cutting clears the stragglers.

In the kitchen

Whole-roasted with brown butter, or broken down for a hard sheet-pan char. Fall heads are sweet enough to eat raw with anything creamy.