Leek

First seeds of the year: leeks started under lights in late February for soups from September to December. They hold space all season and justify it in the months when little else is standing.

Growing

Sow indoors in late February, 10 to 12 weeks ahead, thick in a tray like grass, and trim the tops to three inches while they grow inside. Transplant in spring once pencil-thick by dropping each seedling into a six-inch dibbled hole and watering soil in around it; that buried depth is the first stage of the white shank. Hill soil up the stems once or twice over summer to blanch them further. A 10 gallon or deeper bag works; a bed row works better. They stand through hard frost, so digging runs September to December, taking what dinner needs and leaving the rest. Do not let summer dryness check them; a leek that wants for water simply stops thickening.

Varieties

King Richard is the quick one for early fall; Tadorna and Bandit stand through real winter; Bleu de Solaise is the handsome hardy heirloom.

Pests

Allium leaf miner has reached the Hudson Valley and leeks are its favorite; the tell is a neat line of white dots down a leaf. The fix is simple and total: insect netting during the two flights, roughly mid April through May and September through October. Uncovered plants end up with pupae tucked between shank layers, discovered at the cutting board.

In the kitchen

Potato leek soup is the destiny; braised halves and leek-top stock cover the rest. Split lengthwise and rinse well, since hilled leeks hold grit exactly where the knife finds it.